All In All Done: The Picks #10

Hello, wine nerds.

The last big auctions are about to take place before the relatively quiet summer period. 

It’s an interesting time of year for our world—on the one hand, consignors travel, it's hot, and older red wine (the bread and butter of the industry) isn't necessarily at the forefront of everyone's mind. On the other, this is exactly what makes it a good time to pick up some deals (as long as you're OK not shipping until the weather cools).

Before the lull, though, things have been heating up. Deals are still out there but you've got to dig a little deeper. So, let’s.

P.S. if you’ve been having a good time with me and All In All Done, share it with a friend.

This two-day auction is really three auctions.

First, there is a reprise of the "barrel auction" they did last year–essentially an opportunity to buy a "barrel equivalent" i.e. 300 bottles of 2025 Bordeaux. With the usual clichéd caveat that the Bordelais are prone to declaring every vintage the best, this one is a clear return to quality, and prices have actually dropped a bit. If you wanted 300 bottles of wine, the auction basically provides direct access to the Chateaux themselves—you can create your own back label (for your company or a wedding or whatever), and many of the lots include lunches and dinners. Now, if you called just about any chateaux and told them you'd buy 300 bottles of en primeur wine you could probably get this stuff anyway, but Zachys has done all the legwork for you.

There is also a (New York, not Delaware) selection of Chartreuse. For whatever reason, old Chartreuse has captured the zeitgeist and while I'm sure the audience is small, it is fervent. Whether or not these old Chartreuse are "worth it" is of course a matter of opinion, but if you ever want to try one, you’ll have to compete.

Lastly, Barbetta Restaurant and Fred Schrader. This auction is consummated in DE so there is no sales tax. Barbetta was an iconic NYC gem that shuttered earlier this year when the owner/operator (and daughter of the founder) passed away. The collection is almost all Italian—as one would guess, since the late owner Laura was responsible for introducing many Italian wines to the US market. Whenever a collection this deep comes to market, there are always deals to be had. I'm looking specifically at Vietti, Vajra, Voerzio and Aldo Conterno.

Fred Schrader's collection is his wines, of course, including some interesting glass bottles shaped like a female nude (if you're into that sort of thing).

My eyes went straight to lot 187 starting at $1,600 for 9–a wonderful mixed lot of Domaine Lafarge from excellent vintages: 1999, 2005, 2010, 2015. Lafarge is a great classicist and for whatever reason their wines have never cracked the stratosphere financially.

I was also drawn to the section that starts at lot 189. Bernard-Bonin is a winery that's been around for ~30 years, helmed by Nicolas Bernard and Véronique Bonin, but for some reason these wines have captured the imagination of the type of people who peruse auction catalogs. If you're looking for the next big thing–and I mean that in a financial sense, not a wine sense–this could be it.  Especially in mag, of which there are a few here. Think of Hubert Lamy, for example. There's a bunch in the auction, but St. Aubin for $150 means you've missed the boat.

Ditto that the wines of Kei Shiogai. When I've had them they've been... OK... but wow, it's fascinating to watch a "cult" form in real time.

This auction also has an enormous selection of Conterno. But, if I were you, I'd focus on the small tranche of Cavallotto starting on lot 412. For $100, this a Barolo that you need to have, and there's even a d-mag for $450.

As always, reply with a lot number if you’re considering bidding. I’ll tell you what I think.

And if you value what I’m putting out here, and want unrestricted access, please consider upgrading.

Cheers,
-The Gavel God